Transmission gear selector rod ajustments

When I went to go to comment the rod to

the transmission and the shifter I realized the rod was to short.

On the spot where the rod

connects there was a piece of the old rod I removed it and welded it to the rod to extend it. I adjusted the length the cut off the old connection piece. I placed it in the right position and finished by placing coder pins through the holes.

Transmission Shifting Alternative

So, more or less, we are out of luck on finding a wiring diagram for the TCM of this vehicle. after looked over the interenet, through blogs and forums, and even having peter contact dealers in japan with a translator, still no hope.

so we've decided to take an alternate route.

what we will do is use the 2 shifting solenoids that determine the gear position, and splice them into a 'manual switch' type method. its almost like a manual transmission, were u change the gears yourself, but using an automatic transmission.

to test to see if it even works, we got some light switches and used wire to splice onto each solenoid. there are 4 solenoids in total: 2 for swithcing gears, 1 for the lock up, and the other for line pressure?. we attached the first 3 to light switches that are positioned convinetl in the center consol of the trooper.

so technically what happens is, when both the switches are ON and/or OFF in a certain pattern, it determines the gear it switches to. this is a chart with the proper sequence for the trooper.

SWITCH 1 SWITCH 2 GEAR

ON OFF 1st

ON ON 2nd

OFF ON 3rd

OFF OFF 4th

after further testing, if everything goes well, we will purchase a shifter knob with all the gears (it looks like a real stick shifter) instead of using the light switches to change gears.

Front engine bar repeair

When we want to pull the engine out. We diceded to cut the Front enginr bar to clear the way and let engine inside. Now in order to let the hood to close we have to install back it again.　And if we choose the Welding than it will stay stronger but can't be remove again . So I make and new Bracket for it. On both side. I cut some strong metal and cut the shape fit the bar and drill holes on it one bracket 6 holes makeit very tight.

Vacuum system

We had no vacuum canister so we got one. The vacuum canister was rusty and old it came from a junk yard. I Sanded the canister and used a metal epoxy to fill in the holes on the canister. The epoxy hardends in 5 minutes. Then I painted the vacuum canister black. Well it was dry I figured out how to mount it. I used All Round wire. I attached a hose to the vacuum pump and one going to the break power booster.

For testing I attached all the hoses to the canister. We started the engine and the vacuum Gage said it had 15 inches of vacuum. We shut off the engine and the vacuum in the canister disappeared. We realized that the canister had a one way value. I change the hoses and attached the canister beside of the car battery.

Passenger side engine mount changes

The driverside mount is in. Next I did the passenger side mount. The changes I made to the passenger side mount were close to the changes I made on the other mount. The different changes were that we had to put in a spacer to

lift up the enigne. After the mount was drilled and welded we put in the place. One of the holes in the mount was in the wrong place. I drill another hole. Put the bolts in place and torture them by feel.

Ignition Problems

So now that everything is in place, we've had a few troubles starting and stopping the engine.

To start it, using the ignition key wasn't working. for some reason, the wire isnt receiving a proper connection, but weve decided to figure it out later, as the larger issue at hand is stopping the engine.

With the key in the ON position, we took a direct connection from starter to the battery to start the engine. it turns on fine. but then once we put the key in the OFF position, the engine kept running, leaving use to block the airway to stop the engine.

It's strange that it wasnt working, so we got a Volt meter to check voltage. with the key in the ON position, it receives the 12volt reading, which is the needed amount to start. once in the OFF position, it received 1.3- 1.6 volts, instead of zero. The wire is getting a voltage from somewhere else, which is enough, we assume, to keep the engine running and ignition pumping fuel.

so for an alternative route, we used a 12v relay switch. The relay would have an internal switch that turns on, to allow power to ignition, when there is 12v or more form the battery. when there is less ( under 12v, so that includes the random 1.3 volts) the switch would shut off, leaving zero Volts to the ignition wire to the pump, shutting off the engine. once the wires were in their positions and grounded, as well as some volt meter tests, it looked promising.

we 'hotwire' started the engine again, letting it run for a bit, but once the key was put in the OFF position, the engine kept running. the ignition was still getting power and we couldnt figure out why or how.

we removed the relay switch, since that didnt work out and we looked for other possiblities.

the ignition wire is connected to the PCM which has other wires leading to many parts of the engines/tranny, and it could be grabbing some volts from there. i removed the center council trim of the trooper, and unplugged the 3 connectors from the PCM. after another ON/OFF runthrough, still no luck stopping the engine, leading us to unplug the wires for a shutoff

We tried using a restitor to shave off the volts, still giving enough volts to start, but not enough to keep it going, although that method didnt work out either, mostly because the resistor that we used wasn't strong enough.


This is a minor problem we came across in this conversion, and if only we knew some smimple answers, it would have been easily bypassed, but with some further investigating, we'll figure it out. stay posted!

Air Conditioning Installed

So Now with the Rad in, its time to move onto the Air condition.

We purchased a new filter for the AC. after carefully replacing the filter, making sure not to damage the steel lines or the AC condensor, we then put it in place. the coorisponding hoses were then put into position, but we will have them crimped (at an AC shop) professionaly to the fitting.

Radiator and Hoses complete

so now that all he hoses are in position, its time to line up the radiator.

fresh out of the box, the gasoline model rad needed some adjustment. at the bottom, we needed to switch the steel line (inverse for diesel) so we simply switched it around. it worked out perfectly :).

to make sure the radiator is lined up were its needed, we tac welded the hood cross support that was cut off back in place. the rubber from the old Rad was used at the bottom of the new one, to be aligned properly. . now that the Radiator is in, we tested the connections.

For the bottom connection of the rad, we used the old hose left over from the gas engine to fit to the coolant heater. for the top, leading from a large Rad fitting to the smaller thermo housing fitting was a bit more complicated. Don went out and found the perfect hose peice thats has just enough length to reach, and it has the right size for both ends.

now that the rad is in place, we put both the fan blade and shroud in at the same time. since the engine is leaning more toward the passenger side, even though the fan shroud was cut to compensate the lack of space, we needed to cut some more so the blade wouldn't scrape against it. too bad the engine is leaning quite off, but its easier to cut some plastic than to do major adjustment again to the motor mounts, although in reality, its not too bad overall.

So now all the connections are made, i topped it up with coolant (50% coolant, 50% water). and once the engine starts circulating the coolant, we will fill up some more.