Thursday, January 26, 2012

Dennis' Reflection

1. Choose one aspect and describe the procedure and what you needed to do it (manuals)?

The aspect that i chose was the last big project i completed, which was the isntallation and configuration of the tachometer module sensor. Originally it's meant for adjusting the pulse from the speedometer in the dash to the pulses in the transmission, to give the appropriate reading of speed on the dash; otherwise without it, you could be going 50 km/hr physically, but the speedometer reads 25km/hr or 75 km/hr, ect. with peters installation the gasolene speedometer gear from the gas tranny, and installing it to the diesel tranny, that resolved the speedometer issue, but the Tachometer simply reads nothing at the moment, so we will be using it for that.
after reading through the instruction booklet for the module, there's a few things i've noticed we needed to do to connect the the wires and make it work. on the module itself, there are wire inlets (or ports) to connect various wires to, such as power, ground, different pre-set pulse settings, and a custom one were you can adjust precisely the amount of pulses necessary. along with that there are switches that indicate different sensitivity levels (high and low) of the pulses. lastly there is an up and down button, meant to be used to adjust the pulses
so let me elaborate on the pulses. for each number on the tachometer, (1-7 usually), it means 1000-7000 RPM, or rotations per minute. what needs to happen is the module has to take in 1 pulse for every RPM, so at an idle of 800 RPM, the module needs to read 800 pulses per minute (PPM), to read 800 RPM on the tachometer on the dash board.

Steps
1) splice a wire that provide 12 volts of power when the key is in the ON position, to be connected in the 'POWER' port of the module
2)Next, find an appropriate ground on the engine (in this case, we shared our ground eyelet with another ground) and connect to the 'GROUND' port of the module
3) we have 3 tachometer wires, TACH (sensor ground), TACH#1(from the engine), and TACH #2(from under tachometer in the dash).
4)connect TACH to SENSOR GROUND port of the module
5) Connect TACH #1 to the 2000 PPM INPUT (lowest pre-set) port of the Module
6) Connect Tach #2 to the OUTPUT port of the module

Now that all connections are made, with the vehicle turned on, the sensor read about 3100 RPM at the tachometer in the dash, at idle. which means right now the 700-800 RPM of the physical engine is giving triple amount of PPM to the module, which can be seen on TACH in the dash.

Configuration adjust steps
1) Holding the UP button while the vehicle is in the off position, then turning it on, brings up a RED light which indicates it is now in 'COURSE ADJUST MODE', which means i can adjust the PPM by clicking either the UP switch and DOWN switch.
2) since the PPM is triple the amount to high, i tested by clikcing the down button '50' times to see were it drops
3) turning off and on the engine takes the module out of COURSE ADJUST MODE, allowing us to see the current RPM at idle. it dropped down about 1000 RPM.
4) so after turning the vehicle on and off multiple times and adjusting accordingly, we set the PPM to match the idle RPM at around mid 800 RPM. as we add put pressure on the accelerator, the Tachometer rises consistently with the physical engine RPM,
5) success !
6) the last step is installing the module to the fire wall, resizing the wires and placing them in the most convenient location so that they wont get tampered with or be in the way of anything while the vehicle is in motion.


What did i Learn from the conversion? what was the most challenging, and why?

So first I want to say that I've truly expanded my knowledge in automotive mechanics, the various steps, procedures and hardships it involves, as well as the various components indirectly involved: such as learning about green technology, learning how to work with others to name a few. During this semester, I've learned how to read manuals by knowing what is necessary to read and how to find it. I've learned things that you cant learn in books such as the 'feel' for moving, installing, un-installing and creating parts for a vehicle, from the simplest methods of tightening bolts to the max then just 'a little extra', to more complicated procedures such as welding, grinding, and bending parts. the most challenging aspect of the conversion was not being able to find resources on making things work. everything is logical; you need to do something?, find some resources, instructions, manuals, ect, then apply. but when those resources don't exist or are hard to find, it makes things a lot more challenging. more specifically, the wiring diagram for the TCM just didnt exist within our reach. after a lot of research and contacting, we couldn't find a way to match wires from the transmission to TCM, so we had to figure out alternatives and take initiative in getting it done the best way possible.
Overall, I don't see much we could have improved on. Maybe just a few things here or there, like organization to allow ease of each process after another. everything else went very well and we pretty much got it all done.
I've always been very interesting in learning in depth the aspects of automotive. I love cars and the Industry, and through the inspiration of taking this coarse and learning what's involved, I've considered to take on the field of automotive in post secondary school, sometime in the future. what a fun a great experience this conversion has been!

-Dennis

The aspects Dennis did

-Remove front grill and headlights
-plasma cut front cross member frame
-un-install AC, power steering, and Vacuum lines
-disconnect all necessary wires leading from the engine
assist in lifting engine/tranny out
-removal of gas tank and shield
-cleaning gas tank, and taking out the fuel pump
-removing fuel pump component, replaced with a simple hose
-installing steel lines to coil around fuel pump piece, for coolant
-installing makeshift fuel pump into a new fuel tank.
Wiring
-using tons of research and volt meter testing; locating and identifying
all necessary wiring from the GAS engine, and DIESEL engine, to be matched
accordingly, for the diesel engine in the previous gas trooper.
install engine in the trooper: Have engine Generally in place under the hood
-install gas tank back in place
-install rubber coolant lines from coolant hoses under the hood down under the vehicle to the gas tank, attached to the makeshift gas pump unit
-install departure and return fuel lines from functioning diesel fuel pump under the hood, to the fuel tank, attaching to the makeshift fuel pump unit.
-install electric heater wires all along the the hoses that lead from under the hood to the gas tank.
-bundle and insulate coolant/fuel lines, then tie strap to vehicle securely
Under the Hood
- Connection and testing of a few wires from engine to vehicle
-Installation of brand new Radiator, along with meticulous hose cutting and positioning to appropriate coolant lines
-installation of AC unit (new filter)
WIRING 2.0
-during all this, doing research on attempting to find wiring diagrams to match all the wires leading from the transmission attached to the Diesel engine to the TCM. after plenty of looking and attempts, there was no luck, so we were left with an alternative; not using the TCM, and manually changing gears.
-locate and identify the solenoids and their code for each gear change ( 2 solenoids, gears 1-4).
-attaching them to light switches for testing of each gear in the parking lot
-locating and identifying lock-up switch, and also tested with a light switch
-purchase of a solenoid shifter, leading to installing on the centre console of the vehicle (cutting plastic to fit appropriately)
-installation of lock-up switch, to the centre console
-re installation of the centre console
TACHOMETER
-tachometer wiring doesn't work, so with the purchase of a third party speedometer sensor, we created a makeshift tachometer sensor.
-following code instruction from the manual and using various existing wires under the hood (3 tach wires, 1 ground and 1 12v power); adjusted pulse of the engine, to tach sensor to tachometer to match.
-installing of tach sensor against fire wall
-labelling of all wire connections
-bundling and organizing wires under the hood.


Wednesday, January 25, 2012

Jonathan's Reflection

1. Choose one aspect and descride the procedure and what you need to do it (manuals)?

The aspect I'm going to choose is the timing belt. Because the 3.1 TD was only sold on the east it was hard to find the proper method if changing the timing belt. We had a manual saying the basic repairs but no timing belt. My teacher was looking on a blog that said a pretty good method of doing it, also belt tension values and torque values. From this blog we worked out how to do it. For the things we didn't know I problem solved and did it.

Step 1
- remove all of the drive belt

Step 2
- remove the four bolts that hold the crankshaft pulley and use a rubber hammer to remove the pulley

Step 3
- remove the timing belt shield

Step 4
- take a socket wrench and turn the crankshaft so the key lines up with TDC timing mark

Step 5
- Aline the camshaft pulley and the injection pulley by putting a bolt through the alinement holes on both of the pulleys to make sure that they stay at TDC position

Step 6
- make a mark with a marker on the camshaft side and injection pump side of the belt

Step 7
- loosen the tenison pulley and remove the timing belt

Step 8
- transfer the marking to the new timing belt. MAKE SURE YOU LINE UP THE MARKINGS PERFECTLY!!

Step 9
- place the new timing belt into position and line up the markings

Step 10
- using a scale put a 9kg load on the timing belt using the tensioning arm to the transfer the load. Torque the tension pulley to 76Nm.

Step 11
- remove the alinement bolts from the injection and cam pulley. Rotate the engine 45 degrees anti clockwise and ensure all the slack is on the tensioner side.

Step 12
- return the engine to TDC and ensure that the bolt go into the alinement holes.

What did you learn from the conversion? What was challenging? And why?

I would like to say that this project was very enjoy able and fun. Also me and my classmates had a great teacher to learn from! Some parts of the project were very challenging. Like getting the engine in the right position. I would say my problem solving skills have grown during this project. I learn many thing like how to read wiring diagrams, welding, developing more of a feel for automotive work, wiring circuits and etc to many thing to say. Some challenging things were not having my proper manuals I over came this by problems solving and trial and error. I would do it again if a could.

The aspects Jonathan did

- removed and installed starter motor
- removed and installed new heater hoses
- rewired alternator and starter
- installed coolant heater (block heater)
- installed vacuum system
- removed and installed new timing belt
- modified left and right engine mounts
- modified gear selector rod
- removed and installed new radio
- removed and installed new glow plugs
- installed glow plug wiring system
- helped install new exhaust system with classmates
- installed new temperature gauge
- removed transmission cross member
- installed engine bay Hood with Peter
- helped cut and remove radiator cross member bar
- installed new oil filter
- helped Dennis configure tachometer module
- removed old radiator
- cut radiator protection cover
- adjusted engine to fit in the right position
- removed and installed new engine belts
- removed and installed interior dash panel
- also other little things

Temperture Gauge

One of the last things I did on the Isuzu trooper was the temperature gauge. I tried to figure out the stock temperature gauge with the wiring diagrams we had but, the diagrams were unlcear where the wires went. The stock temperature gauge wasn't working. We tried everything we could to get it working. My teacher went and got a dash mountable temperature gauge. The after market gauge came with its own temperature sensor. On the new temperature gauge there were three terminals +,- and S (temperature sensor signal wire). I ran wires through the firewall and connected them to the ground, sensor module , and 12 volt positive source. When I was wiring the radio in I found two wires which were alumination and dimmer. I connect the wires to the light for the temperature gauge so that when you turn the lights on the gauge lights up.

Sunday, January 22, 2012

Peter's Reflection

1. Choose one aspect and descride the procedure and what you need to do it (manuals)?

I want talk about the wiring the shifting indicator light . In the begging Our Engine was bought in Japan and all wire aren't the same to connect to the TCM(Trasmission control module) The TCM are working fine but only the biggest problem was that wiring . Untill we finish all the Conversion and deal with it . In first time dennis didi some reasrch and I did some as well. The fact is this problem wont be big deal for this car owner don , Because He know the shifting position. We do this for Past the safety Road test.

Step.1 Use the research data for the TCM wiring and understand what is what.
Step.2 In order to let the gear run in the correet Speed I take the Speed sensor From the old Gas engine Transmission , And reconnect on the New diesel Transmission ,
I did a mistake to connect in the wrong place and make on reaction on the dash board . Well I fix itafter.
Step.3 Find the connection on the TCM of the shfting indicator light wire
Step.4 I have to cut them and rewiring on the Mole wire (wire for the let the light working)
Step.5 And have patience to test the each wire are connect in the right way ,there are 9
in total and time them is 81 paten for the
Connection every single wire has to use the electranic Meter the test are there having Ev connection.
Step.6 Find it and wring it than , we shift the gear and test and ajust it untill all lights work properly on dash
Same happen on the back up light dosen't work,i did it too


What did i Learn from the conversion? what was the most challenging, and why? For many people they first time think about build or Conversion a Car must be very interesting and the answer
is yes!! Very ,If only you have the patience to deal with the problem, Nothing is unbeatble In fact When I facing
Some really hard trouble I allmost thout I can't but will teacher and classmate together to conquer it team work all
way help it alot. Like I like working alone on anything except the wring, So I allmost did every other bit of the car and work hard
on it and untill the end of the term ,the task are running out for us ,Car all most done,No choice for job then .I have to face the wring
Thankfuly Don tell me alot knowlege about this work And we working together and finish it .at that time is all most the final exam
and even after that still come to school every day for extra working . And the last of the last day I finish the A/C problem
By the Don's words The Car has finally finished

I just feel so difrennt at the end ,I was very happy ,3boy and I teacher can done some thing unexpected . And we done it
it . Look back what I did ,I just feel pride . I Believe I'm the guy has Longset time working on the welding machine and cutting tool
All these experience all so valueble for me working in the future This project Give me so much happy and experience and
knowlege . once life chance to having this project and I can 100% saying '' I'm not wasting in here and I enjoy in very much !! ''

The aspects of the Conversion Peter did

This is what I done in 2011. For the ISUZU diesel conversion project,
- Remove /reinstall the front grill
- Remove /reinstall the Front Light
- Cut the Front engine Bar
- Remove Front & rear drive shaft
- Remove fuel tank & disconnect fuel line
- Disconnect transmission connectors & linkages
- Remove transfer case shifter
- Remove the complete Exhaust system (the bolt of the Exhaust are very tight So we used OXY/ACET torch)
- Disconnect the starter motor wire & alternator wire
- All Four Wheels Disk Brakes roter and shose Replace
- Fix front wheel join point bearing
- Replace rubber cover For the drive axle
- Replace the Rear Drum brake
- Remove the Oil pan and Fix the damage point and Reglue it back on
- Making a New Braket for oil filter
- Recut the power steering tube
- Connect alot tube and wire some with clamped
- Rebuild the Front engine Bar bracket
- Replace some Broken light bulb
- Reinstall the Fuel tank and Reposition the fuel pipe
- making new exhaust tip
- Reinstall the Shift nob
- Reinstall the speed senser for transmission
- ReInstall the Hood
- Reconnect the Wire the make backup light work
- Find the drive indcator light make it work
- Reconnect the wire For Let the A/C working properly
- cleaning the air intake