Rockway Tech Diesel Conversion
Thursday, January 26, 2012
Dennis' Reflection
The aspects Dennis did
Wednesday, January 25, 2012
Jonathan's Reflection
1. Choose one aspect and descride the procedure and what you need to do it (manuals)?
The aspect I'm going to choose is the timing belt. Because the 3.1 TD was only sold on the east it was hard to find the proper method if changing the timing belt. We had a manual saying the basic repairs but no timing belt. My teacher was looking on a blog that said a pretty good method of doing it, also belt tension values and torque values. From this blog we worked out how to do it. For the things we didn't know I problem solved and did it.
Step 1
- remove all of the drive belt
Step 2
- remove the four bolts that hold the crankshaft pulley and use a rubber hammer to remove the pulley
Step 3
- remove the timing belt shield
Step 4
- take a socket wrench and turn the crankshaft so the key lines up with TDC timing mark
Step 5
- Aline the camshaft pulley and the injection pulley by putting a bolt through the alinement holes on both of the pulleys to make sure that they stay at TDC position
Step 6
- make a mark with a marker on the camshaft side and injection pump side of the belt
Step 7
- loosen the tenison pulley and remove the timing belt
Step 8
- transfer the marking to the new timing belt. MAKE SURE YOU LINE UP THE MARKINGS PERFECTLY!!
Step 9
- place the new timing belt into position and line up the markings
Step 10
- using a scale put a 9kg load on the timing belt using the tensioning arm to the transfer the load. Torque the tension pulley to 76Nm.
Step 11
- remove the alinement bolts from the injection and cam pulley. Rotate the engine 45 degrees anti clockwise and ensure all the slack is on the tensioner side.
Step 12
- return the engine to TDC and ensure that the bolt go into the alinement holes.
What did you learn from the conversion? What was challenging? And why?
I would like to say that this project was very enjoy able and fun. Also me and my classmates had a great teacher to learn from! Some parts of the project were very challenging. Like getting the engine in the right position. I would say my problem solving skills have grown during this project. I learn many thing like how to read wiring diagrams, welding, developing more of a feel for automotive work, wiring circuits and etc to many thing to say. Some challenging things were not having my proper manuals I over came this by problems solving and trial and error. I would do it again if a could.
The aspects Jonathan did
- removed and installed starter motor
- removed and installed new heater hoses
- rewired alternator and starter
- installed coolant heater (block heater)
- installed vacuum system
- removed and installed new timing belt
- modified left and right engine mounts
- modified gear selector rod
- removed and installed new radio
- removed and installed new glow plugs
- installed glow plug wiring system
- helped install new exhaust system with classmates
- installed new temperature gauge
- removed transmission cross member
- installed engine bay Hood with Peter
- helped cut and remove radiator cross member bar
- installed new oil filter
- helped Dennis configure tachometer module
- removed old radiator
- cut radiator protection cover
- adjusted engine to fit in the right position
- removed and installed new engine belts
- removed and installed interior dash panel
- also other little things
Temperture Gauge
One of the last things I did on the Isuzu trooper was the temperature gauge. I tried to figure out the stock temperature gauge with the wiring diagrams we had but, the diagrams were unlcear where the wires went. The stock temperature gauge wasn't working. We tried everything we could to get it working. My teacher went and got a dash mountable temperature gauge. The after market gauge came with its own temperature sensor. On the new temperature gauge there were three terminals +,- and S (temperature sensor signal wire). I ran wires through the firewall and connected them to the ground, sensor module , and 12 volt positive source. When I was wiring the radio in I found two wires which were alumination and dimmer. I connect the wires to the light for the temperature gauge so that when you turn the lights on the gauge lights up.
Sunday, January 22, 2012
Peter's Reflection
The aspects of the Conversion Peter did
- Remove /reinstall the front grill
Wednesday, December 21, 2011
Transmission gear selector rod ajustments
When I went to go to comment the rod to
the transmission and the shifter I realized the rod was to short.
On the spot where the rod
connects there was a piece of the old rod I removed it and welded it to the rod to extend it. I adjusted the length the cut off the old connection piece. I placed it in the right position and finished by placing coder pins through the holes.
Tuesday, December 20, 2011
Transmission Shifting Alternative
Sunday, December 18, 2011
Front engine bar repeair
When we want to pull the engine out. We diceded to cut the Front enginr bar to clear the way and let engine inside. Now in order to let the hood to close we have to install back it again. And if we choose the Welding than it will stay stronger but can't be remove again . So I make and new Bracket for it. On both side. I cut some strong metal and cut the shape fit the bar and drill holes on it one bracket 6 holes makeit very tight.
Friday, December 16, 2011
Vacuum system
We had no vacuum canister so we got one. The vacuum canister was rusty and old it came from a junk yard. I Sanded the canister and used a metal epoxy to fill in the holes on the canister. The epoxy hardends in 5 minutes. Then I painted the vacuum canister black. Well it was dry I figured out how to mount it. I used All Round wire. I attached a hose to the vacuum pump and one going to the break power booster.
For testing I attached all the hoses to the canister. We started the engine and the vacuum Gage said it had 15 inches of vacuum. We shut off the engine and the vacuum in the canister disappeared. We realized that the canister had a one way value. I change the hoses and attached the canister beside of the car battery.
Passenger side engine mount changes
The driverside mount is in. Next I did the passenger side mount. The changes I made to the passenger side mount were close to the changes I made on the other mount. The different changes were that we had to put in a spacer to
lift up the enigne. After the mount was drilled and welded we put in the place. One of the holes in the mount was in the wrong place. I drill another hole. Put the bolts in place and torture them by feel.
Tuesday, December 13, 2011
Ignition Problems
To start it, using the ignition key wasn't working. for some reason, the wire isnt receiving a proper connection, but weve decided to figure it out later, as the larger issue at hand is stopping the engine.
With the key in the ON position, we took a direct connection from starter to the battery to start the engine. it turns on fine. but then once we put the key in the OFF position, the engine kept running, leaving use to block the airway to stop the engine.
It's strange that it wasnt working, so we got a Volt meter to check voltage. with the key in the ON position, it receives the 12volt reading, which is the needed amount to start. once in the OFF position, it received 1.3- 1.6 volts, instead of zero. The wire is getting a voltage from somewhere else, which is enough, we assume, to keep the engine running and ignition pumping fuel.
so for an alternative route, we used a 12v relay switch. The relay would have an internal switch that turns on, to allow power to ignition, when there is 12v or more form the battery. when there is less ( under 12v, so that includes the random 1.3 volts) the switch would shut off, leaving zero Volts to the ignition wire to the pump, shutting off the engine. once the wires were in their positions and grounded, as well as some volt meter tests, it looked promising.
we 'hotwire' started the engine again, letting it run for a bit, but once the key was put in the OFF position, the engine kept running. the ignition was still getting power and we couldnt figure out why or how.
we removed the relay switch, since that didnt work out and we looked for other possiblities.
the ignition wire is connected to the PCM which has other wires leading to many parts of the engines/tranny, and it could be grabbing some volts from there. i removed the center council trim of the trooper, and unplugged the 3 connectors from the PCM. after another ON/OFF runthrough, still no luck stopping the engine, leading us to unplug the wires for a shutoff
We tried using a restitor to shave off the volts, still giving enough volts to start, but not enough to keep it going, although that method didnt work out either, mostly because the resistor that we used wasn't strong enough.
This is a minor problem we came across in this conversion, and if only we knew some smimple answers, it would have been easily bypassed, but with some further investigating, we'll figure it out. stay posted!
Wednesday, December 7, 2011
Air Conditioning Installed
Radiator and Hoses complete
Wednesday, November 30, 2011
Repiar the Oil pan
Fuel/coolant systems complete
Tuesday, November 22, 2011
Driverside engine mount changes
In that past week I have started to modify the engine mounts. Don my teacher teached me how to weld. Before we started this project I had not idea how to weld. I cut two pieces of angle iron which I welded to the driverside engine mount. I marked and drilled holes for
the bolts that mount the mount to the frame of the Trooper. The holes were all most lined up
perfectly so I made and holes bigger by cutting them larger with the plasma cutter. To g
et the modified mount in I had to pushed the engine to the left to place the mount. My teacher helped me to place the engine mount bolts because the bolts are in awkward positio
ns. The diverside mount is fully in place.
Engine adjustmant
The engine is in place but after we put the in place we realized that the engine and transmission were to far back. For the driveshafts to line up with the differentials the engine needed to be moved 1 1/2 inches forward. We flipped the transmission mount which gained 1 inch forward. To gain the remainder 1/2 inch we are going to modify the engine mounts. With the engine and transmission forward the transmission cross-member fits in place. Also the engine is to close to the driver side the the vehicle so we are going to move it 2 inches closer to the passenger side. The engine mounts well have to be cut and welded to fit in place. When the engine in moved forward it will no longer be hitting the firewall. This process will take a long time and will require lots of problem solving.
Monday, November 7, 2011
Engine placement tweaks
Thursday, November 3, 2011
engine is in!
Wednesday, November 2, 2011
Engine Coolant Heater (block heater)
Replace Rear Disc/Drum Brake
Tuesday, November 1, 2011
Fuel tank (continued)
So after the wiring work, i've gotten back to the fuel system.
i wanted to connect the fuel fitting to the tank but the company gave us the wrong nuts (too small), so were waiting to find more special bolts to connect. (the original bolts are too rusted and damaged)
Venting for the tank is needed so that as fuel level lowers, air is pulled in, so that suction doesn't occur in the tank, which could create problem in not allowing fuel to flow. A diagram shows us that the venting system isn't needed for 'general export' diesel tanks: it just doesn't display any. but we thought it'd be good to have one, especialy since we could with the given venting peice on the gas model tank. I had to figure a way to attach a hose, so that air enters but doesn't escape. i found a filter piece that allows air in one way but not out from the vacuum canister from the trooper. i attached a hose to the venting lines, to the piece,to another house, which i will later have ti-strapped in the most convenient spot under the vehicle.
Monday, October 24, 2011
Engine Maintenance, Alternator and Starter Rewiring
Replace Front brakes and bearing
Use the Grease packing tool to filed the grease in bearing with out any spce in the bearing in it. And Remove the old damaged oil seal reinstall a New one and just hammer in carefully bake.
Friday, October 21, 2011
Engine Maintenance Heater Hoses
work is progressing!
Dennis has spent the past week studying wiring diagrams to figure out how to match the electrical components of the diesel engine systems to the electrical wiring of the vehicle. A conversion process that requires step by step patience and attention to detail. It's not an easy job to decipher wiring diagrams and match it to the components on the vehicle. Well done Dennis!
Peter completed the conversion of the power steering hoses and reservoir and has been working this week on replacing the front brakes with new components and servicing the wheel bearings and axles. Meticulous cleaning and fitting of components and gobs of grease in the right places makes for a job well done! Good work Peter!
Jonathan took on the task of engine maintenance, which involved replacing the timing belt, accessory belts, glow plugs, replacing heater hoses and rewiring the alternator and starter cables. Following the correct procedure to disassemble the components and replace the belts, and then reassemble everything according to procedures, required careful reading and interpretation of the service manual for details on how to do the job right. And sometimes no information was available, so he had to problem solve on his own. Excellent work Jonathan!
The engine on the left is the gas engine we removed, the engine on the right is the diesel engine. We hope to be ready to install the diesel within the next week. A little more to go on wiring diagrams... :)
Monday, October 17, 2011
Electrical system (Engine)
figuring out the porper connections that need to be transfered from the gas engine to the diesel is, as one might think, quite the handful. but a simple method of 'breaking it down' to looking at each component and wire individually at a time, is a very important in working the most effectively
So for the electrical system, the general summery of what to do is to match various wires from the gas to the needed ones for diesels. the diesel connections that are needed are listed below (taken from a trusted forum in which someone had done a conversion or transfer using the same diesel engine).
Glow plug rail:
The Glow plug rail will be inputed imore in depth in another post, since we will make our own cuircuit for it.
Starter
The start system was done by john, usuing similar wiring from the gas engine to be attached to the rebuilt starter.
air conditioning
air condition was the most straight forward. i found the single wire on both the diesel and gas.
12V to Injection pump
The injection pump is a mini 'engine' in itself. its quite complex, but in the late stage of wiring, don found a wiring diagram of which components connect to where. the tach-ometer wire is here as well.
REV counter
tachometer incorpirated in injection pump wiring
Oil-Light and Gauge
Both of these were found attached to the engine
Temp from Plug on Thermo Housing
Temp
Temp
Temp from plug on Thermo Housing
Temp: Note this is teed in on same wire to Ignition pump.
The above 5 'temp' listings are all connected to the 'thermo housing'. we will identify the function of each when connected to the trooper so we can test and check to see which work with the corresponding function of each wire.
What we've done is, after identifying the wires, is snipped them with a decent amount of length from the gas, and we will solder the wires from the diesel to the cut wires with plug fittings from the gas engine. we want it to be easy to plug and unplug the wires still, instead of permanently soldering directly from the engine to the car.
stay posted for more on 'Electrical system (transmission)'
Friday, October 14, 2011
Engine Maintenance Timing Belt
Thursday, October 13, 2011
Engine Maintenance Starter Motor
Friday, October 7, 2011
air conditioning
Relocation the Power steering pomp contianer
Today, I removed the Power steering pomp contianer ,and put it on a New location .
Wednesday, October 5, 2011
Engine Maintenance - Glow Plugs
Monday, October 3, 2011
Engine Maintenance Belts
I removed the timing belt inspection cover to take a look at the condition of the timing belt. We decided to change the timing belt. So I remove the crankshaft pulley and removed the plastic shield that protects the time belt and pulleys. The service manual would have the information on replacing the time belt but we don't have the manual. Via internet search we found a write on a form how to do replace it. Below there are some picture of the process.
Friday, September 30, 2011
Fuel tank changes
After disassembly, we we tried to find the best way bring the tank into good condition.
A quote from a shop to coat the overly rusted tank, and replacing the steel vent line seemed the best way to go.
But after further research, don found an auto recycler from the southern states that could provide the same gas model fuel tank of the isuzu trooper, and in good condition with almost no rust, for lower cost.
When the tank arrived yesterday, i removed all the ripped off lines and clamps, prepairing it for new ones.
i needed to find a way to remove the pump its self and find a new method to retrofit it into a pickup, as the diesel engine does not require a pump.
When i removed the pump from its bracket, the steel lines it was attached too floated about 5 inches from the base, so we got a rubber fuel line, in place of the pump, and cut it to float about an inch from the base of the tank so left over debris and heavy gunk would not be sucked from the botton. After a clamping and simple tiestrap fitment, the retrofitment is complete.
The tank is being reassembled and will be connected in a later stage of the diesel conversion.
Oct 5th edit:
Continued on preperation for fuel tank. I got under the car and removed the 2 fuel lines. The vent line was left in place just in case it would be needed, but if it wont be neccisary, it will be removed aswell.
Wednesday, September 28, 2011
Engine and Transmission Removal
Under the hood - almost ready to remove engine/tranny!
Under chassis parts
Plasma cutting the frame to allow engine removal
Remove radiator etc
Tuesday, September 27, 2011
Front grill parts
Monday, September 26, 2011
Introduction to our gas to diesel conversion project
To begin the conversion, we needed to educate ourselves on what we were undertaking. We researched the vehicle and engine information of both the gas and diesel engines. We acquired an online manual for the original gas engine model of the 1994 Isuzu Trooper. We also found an excellent PDF file manual online 4JG2 diesel engine Trooper. The first few days were spent educating ourselves to understand the conversion process and the changes we would need to make to get the 4JG2 to fit in our Trooper.
The picture of the Trooper was taken after some work was already done.